Dutch John Climbing Guide
Dutch John offers solid sandstone climbing in northeast Utah, with everything from mellow trad lines to technical sport routes scattered across multiple formations. The area sees fewer crowds than Moab but delivers quality stone and varied terrain. Most crags require short approaches, making it perfect for efficient sending sessions.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Dutch John climbing. These lines showcase the best stone and movement the area has to offer.
Routes
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Jesse's FCFA (5.7, Trad, Cedar Springs Overlook Wall)
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Please Don't Rain (5.8b, Trad, Cedar Springs Overlook Wall)
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Honeyshine (5.8+, Trad, Central Battleship Formation)
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On Deck (5.9-, Sport, East Battle Ship)
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Tower Rock, NE Face (Brittle Power) (5.9+, Trad, Tower Rock)
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Apple Juice (5.9+, Sport, Flag Crag)
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Red, Yellow, Blue (5.10, Trad, Central Battleship Formation)
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Crack 1 (Ragnarock) (5.11a, Sport, Dry Fork Canyon)
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Petrogrift (5.11a, Sport, Flag Crag)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on Utah sandstone. These routes offer good movement without being overly committing, plus a nice mix of trad and sport options to round out your skills.
Routes
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Trim Your Bush (5.7+, Trad, Central Battleship Formation)
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About Face (5.8+, Sport, Flag Crag)
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Crack 5 (The roof is on fire) (5.8+, Trad, Dry Fork Canyon)
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Lightning Fingers (5.9+, Sport, Shredder)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with these routes that demand better technique and mental commitment. Good selection for pushing grades or getting solid mileage at your limit.
Routes
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Teeter-Totter/ Sandstorm (5.9+, Sport, Flag Crag)
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Poop Deck (5.9+, Trad, Central Battleship Formation)
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Crack 3 (5.9+, Sport, Dry Fork Canyon)
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Burn Out (5.10, Trad, East Battle Ship)
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Bouldering
Solid problems scattered across different formations. Good for warming up, cooling down, or when you just want to work moves without the commitment of ropes.
Routes
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Two Single Beds (V0, Boulder, Flintstones)
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Barn Door (V1-2, Boulder, Nip Tuck)
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Greased Pig (V2, Boulder, Bat Cave/ Throne/ Grease Boulders)
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Highside Left (V2, Boulder, Roadside Formation (Red Fleet State Park Area))
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Nip Tuck (V3, Boulder, Nip Tuck)
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Batman (V5, Boulder, Bat Cave/ Throne/ Grease Boulders)
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