Donnelly Canyon Indian Creek Climbing Guide
Donnelly Canyon offers some of the most accessible crack climbing in the Indian Creek system, with everything from mellow 5.7 splitters to burly 5.12 testpieces. The area sees less traffic than the main Indian Creek corridor but delivers the same quality Wingate sandstone and bomber hand jams. Park at the Donnelly Canyon pullout and hike up the wash to access multiple walls within 20 minutes.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Donnelly Canyon. These are the lines everyone talks about and the ones you'll regret missing.
Routes
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South Face (5.7a, Trad, South Sixshooter)
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Binou's Crack (5.8+, Trad, Donnelly Canyon)
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Bunny Slope (5.9, Trad, Critic's Choice)
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Chocolate Corner (5.9+, Trad, Donnelly Canyon)
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Generic Crack (5.10-, Trad, Donnelly Canyon)
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Sabrina (5.10a, Trad, Critic's Choice)
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Big Lady (5.11-, Trad, The Wall)
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Dos Hermanos (5.11+, Trad, Donnelly Canyon)
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Dancing Queen (5.11+, Trad, The Wall)
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Let 'er Buck (5.12, Trad, Donnelly Canyon)
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Beginner Routes (5.7–5.9)
Perfect for getting your crack technique dialed or introducing friends to the Indian Creek experience. These routes offer quality movement without the sustained difficulty of harder grades.
Routes
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South Face, Even More Right (5.7a, Trad, South Sixshooter)
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Pinch It (5.9, Trad, Critic's Choice)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with sustained crack climbing that demands solid technique and endurance. These routes separate the weekend warriors from the dedicated crack addicts.
Routes
- South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b, Trad, South Sixshooter)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Elite-level crack climbing that demands years of technique refinement and serious fitness. Come prepared to get worked.
Routes
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Mondo (5.12-, Trad, Indian Creek)
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Indian Creek Cement Company (5.12, Trad, Indian Creek)
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Sea of Heartbreak (5.12-, Trad, Indian Creek)
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Acid Nap (5.12-, Trad, Indian Creek)
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Puzzle Factory (5.12, Trad, Indian Creek)
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Bouldering
When your fingers need a break from jamming or you want to work specific moves, hit up these boulder problems scattered throughout the area.
Routes
- Bermuda Triangle (V36A, Boulder, Hamburger Rock)
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