Devil's Playground Utah Climbing Guide
Devil's Playground offers solid sport climbing and quality bouldering on volcanic rock, with routes spanning from mellow 5.6s to burly V8s. The area sees steady traffic for its variety of walls and generally good rock quality, making it a go-to spot for climbers looking to tick multiple grades in a session. Access is straightforward, but check current conditions as some areas may have seasonal restrictions.
Classic Routes (5.8–5.9+)
The must-do lines that define the area's character. These routes consistently deliver quality movement and are worth repeating even after you've moved on to harder grades.
Routes
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Delicate (5.8+, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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Bertrand Russell (5.9+, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Body Snatcher (5.9+, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Buffalo Sauce (5.9+, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Devil's Advocate (5.9+, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Holly Roller (5.9+, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Ambitious Blonde (5.8+, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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Canal Street (5.8+, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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The Orgasmatron (5.8+, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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Crack of 8 (5.8b, Trad, Devil's Dike Crag)
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Stolen Soles (5.8b, Sport, Devil's Dike Crag)
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The Devil's Dike (5.9, Sport, Devil's Dike Crag)
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Monkey See, Monkey Do (5.9, Sport, Devil's Dike Crag)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.8)
Perfect for building confidence on outdoor rock or warming up before harder sends. These routes offer good movement on quality stone without the commitment factor of harder grades.
Routes
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Austin Shuffle (5.6, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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Scenic Cruise (5.6, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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5666 (5.6, Trad, Devil's Dike Crag)
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Eagle View (5.7, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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I can See Clearly Now (5.7, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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Pro Choice (5.7, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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The Rock Bottom (5.7, Sport, The Rock & Skyline Face)
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House of Fun (5.8, Sport, House of Fun Wall)
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Cyclops (5.8, Sport, Mindbender)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Solid stepping stones into harder grades with varied movement and good pump factor. These routes will test your technique and endurance without being completely shut down territory.
Routes
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Devil in the Blue Dress (5.10b/c, Sport, Devil's Dike Crag)
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The Scoop (5.10-, Sport, Devil's Dike Crag)
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Fallen Angel (5.10b, Sport, Devil's Dike Crag)
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Calling All Nonbelievers (5.10b, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Body Cavity (5.10-6a, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Strange Days (5.10- 6a, Sport, Strange Things, West side)
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Star Link (5.10b 5.106b, Sport, Strange Things, West side)
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The Illuminati (5.11-6c, Sport, Pod Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.11c–V8)
Serious business for when you're feeling strong and ready to get worked. Mix of steep sport and powerful bouldering that demands your A-game.
Routes
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Devil's Minions (5.11c, Sport, Devil's Dike Crag)
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Balefire (V8, Boulder, Main Wall)
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Heron Marked (V7, Boulder, Main Wall)
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Wolf Brother (V7, Boulder, Main Wall)
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Tiger King (V7, Boulder, Tiger King)
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Arc of Existence (V8, Boulder, Fall from Grace)
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