Desert Mountain Utah Climbing Guide
Desert Mountain offers a solid mix of sport and trad climbing across varied desert terrain, with everything from beginner-friendly bolted routes to serious traditional lines. The area sees steady traffic from Salt Lake climbers looking for quality stone and diverse climbing styles. Access is generally straightforward, but check current conditions as some areas may have seasonal restrictions.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Desert Mountain climbing. These routes represent the best of what the area offers across different grades and styles.
Routes
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Brown Nosed Sheep (5.8b, Trad, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Elysian Fields (5.9, Sport, Blob's Your Uncle)
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Clubs Full Of Jacks (5.9, Sport, Blob's Your Uncle)
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Dream a Little Bigger, Darlin' (5.10, Trad, Hurt Locker Area)
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Master Lock (5.10+, Trad, Hurt Locker Area)
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Pop and Lock (5.10+, Trad, Hurt Locker Area)
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Court Jester, The (5.10+, Trad, Hurt Locker Area)
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Grenade Launcher (5.10+, Trad, Hurt Locker Area)
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Trenchfoot (5.11-, Trad, East Face)
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Desert Siren (Tower) (5.11, Trad, Blue Grama Cliff)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.8)
Perfect for building confidence on desert rock. These routes offer good movement and solid protection, whether you're learning to lead sport or getting comfortable with the grades.
Routes
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OK to GO (5.6, Sport, Flame Thrower Wall)
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Longbow (5.6, Sport, Mammoth)
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Nona Von Bikemechanic (5.6, Sport, Mammoth)
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Amygdala (5.6+, Sport, W Sector > Amygdala)
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Sucker Punch (5.7, Sport, Flame Thrower Wall)
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Run!, You Bastard!! (5.7a, Sport, W Sector > Mammoth Head)
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Rapid Fire Gospel Man (5.7a, Sport, S Sector > Canoodle)
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Irish Drinking Songs (5.8, Sport, Flame Thrower Wall)
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Private Go Right (5.8, Sport, Flame Thrower Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.9–5.11a)
Step up your game with these moderate classics. Good mix of sport and trad options that'll push your technical skills and gear placement without being unreasonable.
Routes
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Hand Burglar (5.9, Trad, Flame Thrower Wall)
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Ready....GO! (5.9, Sport, Flame Thrower Wall)
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This Is My Rifle (5.9, Trad, Flame Thrower Wall)
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Buzztail (5.9+, Sport, N Pass > Tumblebrush Roof)
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Shiny Space Ship Shell (5.9+, Sport, The Asteroid Belt)
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Ganja In The Gully (5.9+, Sport, Blob's Your Uncle)
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It's Not There (5.10a, Trad, Mammoth)
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Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power (5.10b, Trad, East Face)
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Ewe Got It (5.10c, Trad, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12–5.13a)
Serious business for strong climbers. These routes demand solid technique and mental game, with most being traditional lines that require confident gear placement.
Routes
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Super Cat of the Desert (5.12, Trad, Indian Creek)
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Desert Shield (5.12, Trad, Indian Creek (Scarface))
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The Shylock (5.12+, Trad, Indian Creek (Scarface))
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For Dewey (5.12+, Trad, Indian Creek (Scarface))
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Cement Shoes (5.12+, Trad, Indian Creek (Scarface))
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ATV (5.13a, Sport, West Desert (North Narrows))
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Bouldering (V0–V7)
Quality problems for warming up or dedicated bouldering sessions. Nessi's area has the concentration of problems, with good variety across the grades.
Routes
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Left Warm Up (V0, Boulder, Nessi's)
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Right Warm Up (V0, Boulder, Nessi's)
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25 Foot Ronald (V0-4, Boulder, Topus Boulder)
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Ease Up (V1-2, Boulder, Nessi's)
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Over the Edge (V2-3, Boulder, Nessi's)
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Yellow Jacket (low start) (V3+, Boulder, Nessi's)
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