Day Canyon Climbing Guide
Day Canyon serves up quality traditional climbing on solid sandstone with routes spanning from mellow 5.4 warm-ups to burly 5.13 testpieces. The canyon offers excellent cragging across multiple walls, making it a solid choice for trad leaders looking to dial in their rack skills or push their grades. Access is straightforward, but respect private property boundaries and pack out all trash.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Day Canyon climbing. These routes have earned their reputation through quality movement and position.
Routes
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Working Class Hero (5.9, Trad, Day Canyon Cragging Routes)
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Superball Tower (5.10b, Trad, Superball Tower)
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Android Waffle Hot Line (5.10b, Trad, Day Canyon Cragging Routes)
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Brush Painted Datsun (5.10c, Trad, Day Canyon Cragging Routes)
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Thicker Than Water (5.10+, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Thicker Than Water (pitch 1) (5.10+, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Full Price Fangers (5.11b, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Kiss of the Spider Women (5.12a/b, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Concepción (5.13b, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for newer trad leaders or anyone looking for quality moderate pitches to warm up on. These routes offer good gear and manageable exposure while you dial in your systems.
Routes
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Christine's Way Buff Saab (5.9+, Trad, Day Canyon Cragging Routes)
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A Pirate's Life for Me (5.9, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Alba's Half Price Hand Jams (5.9, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Kentucky Brown Water (5.4a, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The bread and butter of Day Canyon climbing. These routes will test your technical skills and gear placement while keeping things engaging but not desperate.
Routes
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Boognish Tower (5.10b, Sport, Boognish Tower)
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Bee Line (5.10c, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Screaming Deal (5.11+, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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What Momma Don't Know (5.10b, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Day Canyon Daydream (5.10+, Trad, Left Side Cragging)
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Lady Pants (5.11a, Trad, Left Side Cragging)
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Aerobicide (5.11c, Trad, Left Side Cragging)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you're ready to get properly worked. These routes demand solid technique, mental game, and the ability to place gear when pumped.
Routes
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Unnamed (5.11c+, Trad, Right Side Cragging)
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Black Widow (5.12-, Trad, Left Side Cragging)
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Cleaver, The (5.13b, Trad, Left Side Cragging)
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Exit Wound (5.12 7b+, Trad, Left Side Cragging)
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Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare (5.12-, Trad, Left Side Cragging)
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Bouldering
For warming up or cooling down between rope climbs, Day Canyon has some scattered boulder problems worth checking out.
Routes
- In the Bushes (V0+, Boulder, Right Side Cragging)
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