Crackhouse Moab Climbing Guide
Crackhouse is a premier crack climbing destination in Moab, featuring everything from mellow hand cracks to the area's namesake 5.13 splitter. The area spans multiple walls including the famous Crackhouse wall itself, Wall Street, and Ice Cream Parlor, offering a solid mix of traditional and sport routes. Access is straightforward, but respect private property and pack out your trash.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define the Crackhouse experience. These routes represent the best of what the area has to offer across all grades.
Routes
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Crack 1 (5.8+, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Crack 2 (5.8+, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Crack 3 (5.8+, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Big Corner (5.10b/c, Trad, Wall Street)
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Freezer Burn (5.10b, Sport, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Hot Karl Sunday (5.10c, Sport, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Pandemic (5.10+, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11-, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Blowing Chunks (5.11b/c, Trad, Wall Street)
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Best Route Ever (5.11c, Trad, Wall Street)
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Bolts to Bumpy Land (5.11c, Sport, Wall Street)
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The Birth Canal (5.11+, Trad, Crackhouse)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your crack technique dialed or introducing friends to Moab sandstone. These routes offer quality movement without the commitment of the harder lines.
Routes
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Bad Moki Slab (5.6, Trad, Wall Street)
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5.6 Corner (5.7, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Black Slab (5.7, Sport, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Bad Moki Crack (5.8, Trad, Wall Street)
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30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8+, Trad, Wall Street)
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90 Paces (5.9-, Sport, Wall Street)
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Bastardized Old Route (5.9-, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Bad Moki Roof (5.9+, Trad, Wall Street)
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Beyer Offwidth (5.9+, Trad, Wall Street)
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A Good Day to Die (5.9+, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The sweet spot for most visiting parties. These routes showcase what makes Crackhouse special without requiring elite technique.
Routes
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Banana Peel (5.10-, Sport, Wall Street)
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A Fistful of Potash (5.10a, Trad, Wall Street)
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Ananab (5.10a, Sport, Wall Street)
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Arc Angel (5.10a, Sport, Wall Street)
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10 TR (5.10a, Sport, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Another Roadside Distraction (5.10b, Trad, Wall Street)
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Earth Muffin Express (5.10c/d, Sport, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Climate Refugee (5.10d, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Astro Lad (5.11a, Trad, Wall Street)
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Baby Blue (5.11a, Trad, Wall Street)
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Big Sky Mud Flaps (5.11a, Sport, Wall Street)
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Epidemic (5.11a, Trad, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you're ready to test yourself against some of Moab's most demanding lines. Bring your A-game and solid crack technique.
Routes
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Astro Dad (5.11c/d, Trad, Wall Street)
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Outside Traverse (5.12-, Sport, Crackhouse)
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Fat Crack (5.12, Trad, Crackhouse)
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Fat Crack to Birth Canal (5.12, Trad, Crackhouse)
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Kura Buran (5.12b+, Sport, Ice Cream Parlor)
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Armageddon (5.12+, Sport, Wall Street)
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Yuji's Crack (5.12+, Trad, Crackhouse)
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The Crackhouse (5.13-, Trad, Crackhouse)
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Boulders
For warming up or cooling down between rope climbs. Limited selection but quality problems.
Routes
- Baby House (V2+, Boulder, Crackhouse)
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