Corona Arch Area Climbing Guide
The Corona Arch area offers some of Utah's most diverse desert climbing, from mellow trad lines to burly overhangs across multiple canyon systems. Most climbers come here for the classic Wingate and Entrada formations, with Wall Street and Day Canyon being the main draws. Access is straightforward via the Corona Arch trailhead, but expect a bit of hiking to reach most walls.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define this area. These routes have earned their reputation through decades of ascents and deserve a spot on your tick list.
Routes
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Maverick Buttress (7a, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8+, Trad, Wall Street)
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Bad Moki Crack (5.8, Trad, Wall Street)
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A Fistful of Potash (5.10a, Trad, Wall Street)
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Astro Lad (5.11a, Trad, Wall Street)
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Gunsmoke (5.11a, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Peccadillo (5.11, Trad, Long Canyon)
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Black Widow (5.12-, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your desert legs under you or introducing someone to Utah sandstone. These routes offer solid movement without the commitment of harder grades, though you'll still want your trad rack dialed.
Routes
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Bad Moki Slab (5.6, Trad, Wall Street)
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Spindrift Route (5.8b, Trad, Gold Bar Canyon)
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Dragon's Breath AKA South Face (5.8b, Trad, Culvert Canyon)
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90 Paces (5.9, Sport, Wall Street)
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Bad Moki Roof (5.9+, Trad, Wall Street)
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A Pirate's Life for Me (5.95c, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Alba's Half Price Hand Jams (5.95c, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Christine's Way Buff Saab (5.9+, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Finger Food (5.9c, Trad, Culvert Canyon)
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Fools Gold (5.9, Trad, Culvert Canyon)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where the Corona Arch area really shines. Expect sustained movement, technical sequences, and the kind of climbing that'll have you coming back for more. Mix of sport and trad keeps things interesting.
Routes
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Big Corner (5.10b/c, Trad, Wall Street)
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Ananab (5.10a, Sport, Wall Street)
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Another Roadside Distraction (5.10b, Trad, Wall Street)
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Arc Angel (5.10a, Sport, Wall Street)
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Baby Blue (5.11a, Trad, Wall Street)
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Banana Peel (5.10-, Sport, Wall Street)
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Android Waffle Hot Line (5.10b, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Another Fine Day (5.10b, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Bee Line (5.10c, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Brush Painted Datsun (5.10c, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Seventh Serpent (5.11, Trad, Reptilian Wall)
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Nightwalker (5.11, Trad, Gin & Tectonics)
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Broke Back Butt Hurt (5.11, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Buckle Up (5.11, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Beardsley's Cabbage (5.11a, Trad, Gold Bar Canyon)
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Little Nubbin Route (5.10-, Trad, Gold Bar Canyon)
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Hard Routes (5.11c+–5.13)
For when you're feeling strong and the conditions are dialed. These routes demand everything you've got and then some. Bring your A-game and maybe a backup plan.
Routes
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Armageddon (5.12+, Sport, Wall Street)
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Astro Dad (5.11c/d, Trad, Wall Street)
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Aerobicide (5.11c, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Cleaver, The (5.13b, Trad, Day Canyon)
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Bump and Grind (5.12, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Gettin' Schooled (5.12b, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Boot Hill (5.12b, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Double Bow Chimney (5.11c+, Trad, Gold Bar Canyon)
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Southeast Face (5.11c+, Trad, Culvert Canyon)
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Bouldering
When you need a break from the big walls or want to dial in some specific moves, the Corona Arch area has some quality stone to work with.
Routes
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China Buffet (V6, Boulder, Culvert Canyon)
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The Shaolin Finger Jab (V8, Boulder, Culvert Canyon)
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Crocodille Rock (V?, Boulder, Culvert Canyon)
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