Confusion Range Utah Climbing Guide
The Confusion Range offers some of Utah's most diverse climbing, from beginner-friendly trad lines to challenging sport routes across multiple distinct walls. The area draws climbers for its quality limestone and quartzite, varied terrain, and relatively uncrowded feel compared to other Utah destinations.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define the Confusion Range experience. These routes consistently deliver quality movement and represent the best of what the area has to offer across all grades.
Routes
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San Francisco Peeks (5.9+, Sport, The Cape)
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Rolling Thunder (5.9+, Sport, The Cape)
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Desperation Motivation (5.9+, Trad, The Cape)
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Almost Paradise (5.9+, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Severity Disparity (5.11a, Trad, Severity Buttress)
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Severity Disparity Direct (5.11a, Sport, Severity Buttress)
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Without Despair (5.11a/b, Trad, Severity Buttress)
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Ship of Fools (5.11a, Sport, The Cape)
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Between the Sheets (5.11a, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Climax (5.6c4, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Quartermoon (5.9+, Trad, Quartermoon Tower)
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Fog Tower (5.6+, Trad, The Cape)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad skills or getting comfortable with moderate grades. These routes offer solid movement without overwhelming difficulty, making them ideal for longer climbing sessions or introducing friends to the area.
Routes
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Fog March (5.8+, Trad, The Cape)
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Makin' Babies (5.8+, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Fata Morgana (5.85b, Trad, Severity Buttress)
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Eye Dew (5.85b, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Saddlesore (5.85b, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Banging The Bedboards (5.9, Trad, Newlywed Area)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10+)
Solid 5.10 climbing that'll push your limits without destroying you. These routes represent the sweet spot for most climbers looking to progress their grades while still having fun on the rock.
Routes
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Question of Insanity (5.10a, Trad, Madness Buttress)
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Moonshine (5.10a, Sport, Quartermoon Tower)
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Huggin' The Hardpan (5.10a/b, Trad, Severity Buttress)
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Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power (5.10b, Trad, Quartermoon Tower)
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Eagle Terrace (5.10b, Trad, Quartermoon Tower)
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Shark Attack (5.10b, Sport, The Cape)
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Cape Fear (5.10b, Sport, The Cape)
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Fog City (5.10b, Trad, The Cape)
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Devirginized (5.10b, Trad, Newlywed Area)
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Territory of the Mad (5.10d, Trad, Madness Buttress)
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Yogini (5.10+, Trad, Madness Buttress)
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Hard Routes (5.11+–5.12+)
The business end of Confusion Range climbing. These routes demand solid technique, fitness, and mental game. Come prepared to work for your sends.
Routes
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Cleveland Steamer (5.12-, Trad, Madness Buttress)
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Hardpan Heroics (5.12b, Trad, Quartermoon Tower)
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Shotgun Wedding (5.12b, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Lakeshore Loon (5.11c+, Sport, Syringe)
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Adrenaline Junkies (5.11c+, Trad, Syringe)
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Campsite TR (5.11c+, Trad, The Cape)
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Loonar Rising (5.11+, Trad, Syringe)
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Goodbye Bread (5.11b, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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