Clear Creek Canyon Utah Climbing Guide
Clear Creek Canyon delivers quality limestone sport climbing and solid trad options just outside Salt Lake City. The canyon offers everything from mellow single-pitch routes to technical face climbs, with several distinct crags that each have their own character. Access is straightforward, but respect private property and park only in designated areas.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Clear Creek's character. These routes consistently deliver quality movement and are worth repeating. Great for introducing visiting climbers to what the canyon is all about.
Routes
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Berga (5.9-5.10a, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Buckets of Rain (5.9-5.10a, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Lunchmoney (5.9+, Sport, Lower Capitalist Crag)
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Black Dog (5.9+, Sport, The Dog House)
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Dog Breath (5.10b, Sport, The Dog House)
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Bear's Choice (5.10b, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Beasto (5.10-, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Five Finger Discount (5.10-, Sport, Lower Capitalist Crag)
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Hours for Dollars (5.10, Sport, Upper Capitalist Crag)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on real rock or introducing friends to outdoor climbing. These routes offer good movement without being overly intimidating, though don't sleep on the 5.8+ grades—they'll still make you work.
Routes
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2021 Evergreen Obstruction, The (5.7a, Trad, The Canal Zone)
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Monty (5.7, Trad, Lower Capitalist Crag)
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Bear's Choice Easy Variation (5.8+, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Box of Rain (5.8+, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Vitamin N (5.8+, Trad, Lower Capitalist Crag)
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Art of the Deal, The (5.8+, Trad, Creek Side)
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Crack (5.8+, Trad, High Wire Crag)
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Dihedral (5.8+, Trad, High Wire Crag)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where Clear Creek really shines. Solid movement on good rock with enough variety to keep sessions interesting. The Canal Zone routes are particularly dialed, while the Capitalist Crags offer some steeper pulls.
Routes
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Batso Canal (5.10b/c, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Aretnophobia (5.11a, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Cut Loose (5.11a, Sport, The Canal Zone)
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Aries (5.11, Sport, Lower Capitalist Crag)
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Fire the Boss (5.11, Sport, Upper Capitalist Crag)
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Are There Bolts Up There? (5.10a, Trad, Creek Side)
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Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memorial Route) (5.11-, Trad, Creek Side)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business end of Clear Creek. These routes demand solid technique and fitness, with some truly burly sequences. The Dog House area concentrates several of the canyon's hardest lines.
Routes
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100 Proof (5.12a, Sport, Creek Side)
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Hungry Wolf (5.13a, Sport, High Wire Crag)
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Big Dog (5.12b, Sport, The Dog House)
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Big Dog Run (5.12b/c, Sport, The Dog House)
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Bigger Dog (5.13-, Sport, The Dog House)
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Free Enterprise (5.11 to 5.12-, Sport, Upper Capitalist Crag)
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