Cerberus Gendarme Zion Climbing Guide
Cerberus Gendarme offers some of Zion's most varied traditional climbing, from mellow crack systems to burly overhangs that'll test your limits. The sandstone here rewards solid technique and a full rack, with routes that range from perfect beginner outings to world-class test pieces. Access is straightforward from the main canyon, making it a go-to spot when you want quality trad without the epic approach.
Classic Routes (5.11a–5.11d)
The must-do lines that put Cerberus Gendarme on the map. These routes represent some of the finest 5.11 trad climbing in Zion, demanding solid technique and mental game.
Routes
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Bernie Breakdown (5.11-, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Electrica (5.11+, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Fails of Power (5.11c, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Intruder (5.11+, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Mean High Tide (5.11-, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Scarlet Begonias (5.11a, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Cherry Crack (5.10c, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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The Fat Hedral (5.10c/d, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Flip of a Coin (5.10b, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Squeeze Play (5.10a, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Tales of Flails (5.10a, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Touchstone Wall (5.10a/b, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10d)
The bread and butter of Cerberus Gendarme climbing. These routes will push your technique while staying within reasonable risk territory, perfect for building confidence on desert stone.
Routes
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Cynthia's Hand Job (5.10, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Pussy Power > Penis Envy (5.10, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Zion sandstone or warming up before harder sends. These routes offer solid protection and manageable grades while you dial in your crack technique.
Routes
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Cave Route (5.8, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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No Holds Barred (5.8, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you're ready to get properly worked. These routes represent the cutting edge of what's possible on Cerberus Gendarme stone.
Routes
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Dire Wolf (5.12a, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Touchstone Wall (Free) (5.13b, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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