Cedar Breaks Climbing Guide
Cedar Breaks offers solid limestone sport and trad climbing in a stunning high-elevation setting. The area features everything from mellow beginner routes to world-class hard sport climbs, with quality rock and well-developed walls. Check current access conditions before heading up, as seasonal closures can affect some areas.
Classic Routes (5.9)
The must-do routes that define Cedar Breaks' character. These climbs offer exceptional movement, position, and rock quality that make them worth repeating. Perfect for when you want guaranteed good times on stone.
Routes
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Dr. Diaper (5.9, Trad, Starting Block)
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Midget Marathon (5.9, Sport, Zoo)
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The Lorax (5.9, Sport, Suess Wall)
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Blackbird Fly (5.9, Sport, Dark Tower)
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Orange Desperado (5.9+, Trad, The Dark Tower)
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Ravenous (5.9, Sport, The Dark Tower)
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Stem It If You Get It (5.9-, Trad, The Dark Tower)
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Unknown (5.9-, Sport, School Room)
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Unknown (Trivialities?) (5.9, Sport, Dysfunctional Wall)
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Crescent Moonwalk (5.9, Sport, The Suess Wall)
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The Places You'll Go (5.9, Sport, The Suess Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.8)
Perfect for building confidence on limestone and getting familiar with the area's character. These routes offer good movement without being overly intimidating, making them ideal for warming up or introducing newer climbers to Cedar Breaks.
Routes
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Running Scared (5.4, Trad, School Room)
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The Other White Meat (5.7, Trad, School Room)
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5.7 Chimney (5.7, Trad, The Principality)
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Junction (5.7, Sport, School Room)
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Marginally Dysfunctional (5.7, Sport, Dysfunctional Wall)
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Unknown Crack (5.7, Trad, The Suess Wall)
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Common Denominator (5.8, Sport, School Room)
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Conjunction (5.8, Sport, School Room)
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Hankering for Recess (5.8, Sport, School Room)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The bread and butter of Cedar Breaks climbing. These routes will test your technique and endurance while showcasing the area's best movement. Great for pushing grades or getting in solid mileage on quality limestone.
Routes
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Window Crack (5.10-, Trad, Window Rock)
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Willie the Pimp (5.10a, Sport, Starting Block)
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Funky Boss (5.10a, Sport, Starting Block)
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Jehovah Hireh (5.10a, Sport, The Principality)
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Categorical Imperative (5.10a, Sport, School Room)
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Show and Tell (5.10a, Sport, School Room)
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The Dog's Bollocks (5.10b, Sport, Dark Tower)
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Continental Drift (5.10b, Sport, School Room)
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Angering the Cheese Gods (5.10b+, Sport, Starting Block)
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Pumping Out of Gas (5.10c, Sport, Starting Block)
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The Emperor's New Clothes (5.10c, Sport, The Principality)
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Glass Slipper (5.10d, Sport, The Principality)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Cedar Breaks' reputation makers. These routes demand serious fitness, technical precision, and mental game. The Principality wall in particular hosts some of the area's most challenging and rewarding climbs.
Routes
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There (5.12-, Sport, The Principality)
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Divine Right (5.11d, Sport, The Principality)
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Diminishing Returns (5.12c, Sport, The Dark Tower)
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Kiss my Quaking Aspen (5.12d, Sport, The Principality)
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To Hear (5.12d, Sport, The Principality)
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Mano-y-mono (5.13a, Sport, The Principality)
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Reconstructed Visions (5.13b, Sport, The Principality)
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Surprise surprise (5.13d, Sport, The Principality)
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Bouldering
Cedar Breaks offers scattered bouldering across multiple areas, from moderate warm-ups to world-class hard problems. The limestone provides unique movement compared to typical Utah sandstone bouldering.
Routes
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Slab Wall (V4, Boulder, The Meadows)
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Warm Up (V4, Boulder, Springfield)
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Unknown (Chimney) (V4, Boulder, Asteroid)
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Happy Thoughts (aka The Couch) (V5, Boulder, Couch)
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Debunk (V15, Boulder, The Meadows)
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