Cathedral Valley Climbing Guide
Cathedral Valley offers some of Utah's most remote and pristine desert tower climbing, with classic crack systems cutting through towering Wingate sandstone formations. The area sees far fewer crowds than Zion or Indian Creek, making it perfect for those seeking solitude alongside quality traditional routes. Access requires a high-clearance vehicle and careful attention to weather conditions, as the dirt roads can become impassable when wet.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Cathedral Valley's character. These climbs showcase the best of what the area has to offer and should be on every desert climber's tick list.
Routes
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Classic Handcrack (5.9, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Pussy Bolt (5.8, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Left and Right Practice Cracks (5.9, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Two Out of Three Ain't Bad (5.7, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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White Men Can't Jam (5.10a, Trad, Slickrock Divide)
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Capitol Gorgeous (5.11a, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Unnamed 5.12 (5.12b+, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Rexy (V0-4, Boulder, Chimney Rock Canyon)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad skills on solid desert rock. These routes offer forgiving grades with good protection opportunities, making them ideal for practicing gear placements and getting comfortable with the unique movement style that Wingate sandstone demands.
Routes
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Chili For My Jack Burps (V-easy, Boulder, Chimney Rock Canyon)
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Hornets Nest (V-easy, Boulder, Chimney Rock Canyon)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with these moderate challenges that demand solid technique and confident gear placement. These routes will test your crack climbing skills while still offering reasonable protection for the grade.
Routes
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The Baconator (V4, Boulder, Chimney Rock Canyon)
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A Is For Arete (V4, Boulder, Chimney Rock Canyon)
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