Castleton Tower Climbing Guide
Castleton Tower offers some of Utah's most iconic desert tower climbing, with everything from moderate classics to cutting-edge hard routes. The area includes multiple formations like the Sister Superior Group and The Priest, giving you plenty of options for multi-day trips. Access is straightforward via the standard approach, but bring plenty of water and plan for desert conditions.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that put Castleton Tower on the map. These routes represent the area's climbing heritage and offer some of the best movement and positions you'll find anywhere.
Routes
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Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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North Face (5.11-, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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West Face (5.11-, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Black Sun (5.10b, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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North Chimney (5.9, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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The Bjornstad Traverse (The Girdle of Castleton Tower) (5.10, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a, Trad, The Priest)
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Baby Sister (5.8, Trad, Sister Superior Group)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert towers or warming up before tackling the harder stuff. These routes give you a solid introduction to the area's unique rock and movement without being overly committing.
Routes
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Redacted (5.7+, Trad, Sister Superior Group)
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Discrete Start to Black Sun (5.9+, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The sweet spot for most visiting parties. These routes offer sustained climbing with enough challenge to keep things interesting, plus some of the area's most rewarding summit experiences.
Routes
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The Arrowhead (5.10+, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Jah Man (5.10c, Trad, Sister Superior Group)
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The GAG Route (5.10d, Trad, Sister Superior Group)
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Unknown Sister (5.10d, Trad, Sister Superior Group)
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Stardust Cowboy (5.11-, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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North Face Original Pitch 1 (5.11b, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Burning Inside (5.11c+, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Serious business for strong climbers looking to push their limits on desert rock. These routes demand solid technique, mental game, and usually perfect conditions to send.
Routes
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Absolution (5.11c+, Trad, Sister Superior Group)
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Black Sabbath (5.11c+, Trad, Sister Superior Group)
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Hollowpoint (5.11d, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Late for Prom (5.11d, Trad, The Priest)
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Sacred Ground (5.12b+, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Excommunication (5.13a, Sport, The Priest)
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The Ivory Tower (5.13b, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Bouldering
Limited but quality bouldering options for rest days or warming up. The problems here range from casual to absolutely world-class difficulty.
Routes
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Crazy Little Sister (V-easy3, Boulder, Castleton Tower)
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No Other Options (V15, Boulder, Castleton Tower)
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