Capitol Reef Climbing
Capitol Reef serves up classic desert sandstone climbing with stunning red rock formations and reliable weather. The area is known for its quality crack climbing and moderate traditional routes, making it a solid destination for trad climbers looking to dial in their skills. Access is straightforward through Capitol Reef National Park, though some areas require permits for overnight camping.
Classic Routes
Essential routes that showcase what Capitol Reef has to offer. These are the must-do climbs that define the area's character and quality.
Routes
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Pussy Bolt (5.8, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Left and Right Practice Cracks (5.9, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Classic Handcrack (5.9, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Southwest Route (5.8, Trad, Golden Throne)
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Sharon's Crack (5.10a, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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BFF (5.10b, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Capitol Flake (5.10b, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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False Premonitions (5.10a, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Sandy Dihedral (5.10b, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Capitol Gorgeous (5.11a, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Mystery Splitter (5.13a, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Juniper Corner (V0-, Boulder, Desert Archaic Boulder)
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Please Bleed (V3, Boulder, Desert Archaic Boulder)
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Sandslab (V1, Boulder, Desert Archaic Boulder)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert sandstone or building confidence on gear placements. These routes offer quality movement without the commitment of harder grades.
Routes
- Capitol Gains (5.8+, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with these solid moderate routes. Great for pushing your trad leading skills and getting comfortable with the unique movement style of Capitol Reef sandstone.
Routes
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Boulder Overhang (5.10b, Trad, Grand Wash Boulder)
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Capitol Reefer (5.10d, Trad, The Castle Area)
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Take Capitol (5.10b, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Necco Wafer (5.11a, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Quiditch (5.10, Trad, Twin Rocks Area)
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North Face Crack (5.11c+, Trad, Twin Rocks Area)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The serious business. These routes demand solid technique, mental game, and commitment. Come prepared with your A-game dialed.
Routes
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Terrible Two's (5.11+, Trad, Terrible Twos Wall)
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Unnamed 5.12 (5.12, Trad, Capitol Gorge)
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Bouldering
Essential bouldering problems for warming up, cooling down, or when you need a break from the gear.
Routes
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Left of Seam Slab (V0-, Boulder, Seam Slab Boulder)
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Seam Slab (V0+, Boulder, Seam Slab Boulder)
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Right Side of the Triangle (V1, Boulder, Triangle Boulder)
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