Buckhorn Wash Climbing Guide
Buckhorn Wash offers solid desert tower climbing and some quality sport routes scattered across multiple walls. It's a good spot when you want something different from the usual Utah suspects, with decent rock quality and a mix of styles to keep things interesting. Access is straightforward but respect private property boundaries in the area.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define the Buckhorn Wash experience. Don't leave without getting on these.
Routes
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Private Pizza (5.9, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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West Face of Tiki Tower (5.8, Trad, Tiki Tower)
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Scenic Highway (5.8+, Trad, Scenic Byway Wall)
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5 o'clock shadow (5.8+, Sport, Winter Wall)
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Scenic Byway (5.10a, Trad, Scenic Byway Wall)
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James Tower AKA The Lightbulb (5.10a/b, Trad, Red Corner)
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Jamison Engineering (5.10c, Trad, Chocolate Wall)
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Mean Weener (5.11b/c, Trad, April Fools Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your desert legs under you or introducing someone to outdoor climbing. These routes give you a taste of the area's character without the commitment of the harder stuff.
Routes
- Chopped Sand (5.9, Trad, Outhouse Tower)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11a)
This is where Buckhorn Wash really starts to show its teeth. Solid selection for pushing your grade or getting in quality pitches at your limit.
Routes
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Cheek Full of Chaw (5.10, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Lite Not Solid (5.10d, Trad, Pine Canyon)
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Old Bushmills (5.10+, Trad, Pine Canyon)
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Anchors From Hell (5.10+, Trad, Pine Canyon)
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Short Stack (5.11a, Trad, Chocolate Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.11b+)
The business end of Buckhorn Wash. These routes will test your skills and commitment on quality desert stone.
Routes
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Street Legal (5.11b/c, Trad, Vertical Smile Wall)
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Burgerdier General (5.11c/d, Trad, Pine Canyon)
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BBQ Bomber (5.11c/d, Trad, Vertical Smile Wall)
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Taco Terror (5.11c+, Trad, Pine Canyon)
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Cryptogramic Forest (5.11c+, Trad, Wisdom Tooth)
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Unnamed Sport Climb #1 (5.11d, Sport, Pine Canyon)
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Bouldering
Limited but decent bouldering options when you want to work some power or warm up before the routes.
Routes
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Unknown Left Face (V2+, Boulder, House Party Boulder)
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Unknown Classic (V6, Boulder, House Party Boulder)
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