Bridger Jacks Climbing Guide
Bridger Jacks delivers some of Utah's most striking desert tower climbing, with clean Wingate sandstone cracks and stunning exposure. The area attracts climbers looking for classic desert adventures and technical crack climbing in a more remote setting than the busy Moab walls. Access requires a decent drive on dirt roads, so plan accordingly and check conditions.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Bridger Jacks. These routes showcase the area's best features and represent the standard for quality desert tower climbing.
Routes
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Out From the Shadows (5.11c+, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Powders of Persuasion (5.11c+, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Sacred Space (5.11c+, Trad, King of Pain)
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Learning to Crawl (5.11c+, Trad, Thumbelina)
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Hoop Dancer (5.11c+, Trad, Hummingbird Spire)
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Hydrophobic Coyote (5.10-, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Wild Flower (5.10b, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Thunderbolts (5.10a, Trad, Easter Island)
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East Face (5.10+, Trad, Sunflower Tower)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting comfortable with desert crack climbing and multi-pitch systems. These routes offer solid introductions to the area's style without overwhelming difficulty.
Routes
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Brain Damage (5.10d, Trad, The Wall)
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Breathe (5.10+, Trad, The Wall)
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Circling Sky (5.10-, Trad, The Wall)
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Comfortably Numb (5.10, Trad, The Wall)
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Eat Your Pudding (5.10+, Trad, The Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your desert game with these technical crack climbs. Expect sustained sequences and committing positions that'll push your skills while keeping things manageable.
Routes
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Vision Quest (5.10d, Trad, King of Pain)
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Malidea (5.11-, Trad, Sunflower Tower)
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Aging Salesman (5.11+, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Basket Case (5.11-, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Rim Shot (5.11a/b, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Rites of Passage (5.11+, Trad, King of Pain)
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The Incisor (5.11-, Trad, Broken Tooth)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Serious business for experienced desert climbers. These routes demand precise technique, solid mental game, and the fitness to handle sustained difficulty at elevation.
Routes
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Jack In The Box (5.12+, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Jack The Ripper (5.12, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Sucker Punch (5.12, Trad, Bridger Jack Butte)
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Egg Drop Soup (5.12b+, Trad, King of Pain)
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The Kokanee Corner (5.13+, Trad, King of Pain)
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Ziji (5.12b+, Trad, King of Pain)
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Bouldering
Limited but quality problems for warming up or cooling down between tower objectives. Good for working movement or filling time while partners finish routes.
Routes
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Beer n' Cookies (V0, Boulder, Bridger Jack Bouldering)
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Sandy Vag (V1.5, Boulder, Bridger Jack Bouldering)
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