Brian Head Climbing Guide
Brian Head offers solid limestone sport climbing and trad routes in a high-elevation setting that stays cool through summer. The area features everything from mellow single-pitch routes to challenging overhangs, with The Principality serving as the main destination for harder grades. Access is straightforward, but check seasonal road conditions for the higher elevation crags.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Brian Head's character. These span all grades and styles, representing the best climbing the area has to offer. Mix of sport, trad, and boulder problems that locals and visitors consistently recommend.
Routes
-
Dr. Diaper (5.9, Trad, Brian Head Climbing)
View on Mountain Project → -
Blackbird Fly (5.9, Sport, Brian Head Climbing)
View on Mountain Project → -
Ravenous (5.9+, Sport, Dark Tower)
View on Mountain Project → -
Unknown (Trivialities?) (5.9+, Sport, Dysfunctional Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Crescent Moonwalk (5.9+, Sport, Suess Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Lovers in Heat (5.11+, Sport, High School Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Running Scared (5.4b, Trad, School Room)
View on Mountain Project → -
Slab Wall (V0, Boulder, Meadows Main Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Warm Up (V0, Boulder, Asteroid Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Unknown (Chimney) (V0, Boulder, Asteroid Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Happy Thoughts (aka The Couch) (V5, Boulder, Couch Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Debunk (V15, Boulder, Meadows Main Wall)
View on Mountain Project →
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on limestone and getting familiar with the area's character. These routes offer good movement without being overly pumpy, making them ideal for longer sessions or warming up before harder sends.
Routes
-
5.7 Chimney (5.7, Trad, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Junction (5.7a, Sport, School Room)
View on Mountain Project → -
Soaring Shadow (5.8+, Sport, Dark Tower)
View on Mountain Project → -
Common Denominator (5.8b, Sport, School Room)
View on Mountain Project → -
Stem It If You Get It (5.9-, Trad, Dark Tower)
View on Mountain Project → -
Midget Marathon (5.9, Sport, Zoo)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Lorax (5.9+, Sport, Suess Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Orange Desperado (5.9+, Trad, Dark Tower)
View on Mountain Project →
Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The meat and potatoes of Brian Head climbing. These routes will test your endurance and technique while still being achievable for most intermediate climbers. Expect sustained movement and some pumpy sections.
Routes
-
Willie the Pimp (5.10a, Sport, Brian Head Climbing)
View on Mountain Project → -
Funky Boss (5.10a, Sport, Starting Block)
View on Mountain Project → -
Jehovah Hireh (5.10a, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Categorical Imperative (5.10a, Sport, School Room)
View on Mountain Project → -
Window Crack (5.10-, Trad, Window Rock)
View on Mountain Project → -
Angering the Cheese Gods (5.10b, Sport, Brian Head Climbing)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Dog's Bollocks (5.10b, Sport, Brian Head Climbing)
View on Mountain Project → -
Pumping Out of Gas (5.10c, Sport, Starting Block)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Emperor's New Clothes (5.10c, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Glass Slipper (5.10d, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project →
Hard Routes (5.11+)
Brian Head's proving grounds for strong climbers. These routes demand solid technique, power, and mental game. The Principality dominates this grade range with some seriously challenging limestone climbing.
Routes
-
Blue (Binochet) (5.11b, Trad, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Howard Hughes (5.11c, Sport, Brian Head Climbing)
View on Mountain Project → -
Divine Right (5.11d, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
There (5.12-, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Kiss my Quaking Aspen (5.12d, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
To Hear (5.12d, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Mano-y-mono (5.13a, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Reconstructed Visions (5.13b, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project → -
Surprise surprise (5.13d, Sport, The Principality)
View on Mountain Project →