Book Cliffs Climbing Guide
The Book Cliffs offer some of Utah's most diverse climbing, from mellow trad lines perfect for building skills to world-class sport routes that'll test your limits. The area spans multiple walls including Scout Lake, Picturesque Wall, Castle Lake, and the legendary Book of Condolences, each with its own character and style of climbing. Access is generally straightforward, but check current conditions and respect private land boundaries.
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad skills or getting comfortable with the area's unique sandstone. These routes offer solid learning opportunities without the commitment of the harder lines.
Routes
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Gone With the Wind (5.7a, Trad, Scout Lake)
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A-Climb-A-Tize (5.8b, Trad, Scout Lake)
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Ed's Route (5.8b, Trad, Scout Lake)
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Novacain (5.8b, Trad, Scout Lake)
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Green Eggs and Ham (5.8+, Trad, Scout Lake)
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E Tu Brute (5.8b, Trad, Picturesque Wall)
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5.9 (5.9, Trad, Picturesque Wall)
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Raven (5.9c, Trad, Picturesque Wall)
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North Star CITs (5.9+, Sport, Scout Lake)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where the Book Cliffs really start to show their teeth. Mix of quality sport and trad that'll keep you busy for multiple trips.
Routes
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Blues Streak (5.10b, Sport, Scout Lake)
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Guillotine (5.10b, Sport, Scout Lake)
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Huck's Fin (5.10b, Trad, Scout Lake)
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Lustography (5.10b, Sport, Scout Lake)
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Hero Maker (5.11a, Sport, Scout Lake)
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Clear and Present Danger (5.10c, Trad, Scout Lake)
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A Fungus Among Us (5.10c, Trad, Scout Lake)
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A Dream within a Dream (5.10a, Sport, Picturesque Wall)
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Shorty (5.10b, Trad, Picturesque Wall)
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Turbo Force (5.10d, Trad, Picturesque Wall)
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The Straw (5.10b, Trad, Castle Lake)
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Thor's Unhappy (5.10a, Trad, Castle Lake)
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Hard Routes (5.11+–5.12)
Stepping into serious territory here. These routes demand solid technique and mental game, especially the Book of Condolences lines.
Routes
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Shinangwav (5.11b/c, Trad, Scout Lake)
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Camp Nowhere (5.11c, Sport, Scout Lake)
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Book of Condolences (5.12b, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Choss Fighter (5.11b, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Choss Fire (5.11c/d, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Condolences to the Rooster (5.12b/c, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Xcess (5.12b, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Unknown (5.11c+, Sport, Castle Lake)
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Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define the Book Cliffs experience. From moderate trad classics to cutting-edge sport routes that put this area on the map.
Routes
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Minimalist (5.14a, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Sad Rooster (5.13b, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Silencer (5.13a, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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X (5.13a, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Xtension (5.13a, Sport, Book of Condolences)
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Hair Raiser (5.7, Trad, Castle Lake)
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London Bridges (5.8, Trad, Castle Lake)
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Prodigal Son (5.8, Trad, Castle Lake)
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Wife and 2 Kids (5.8, Trad, Castle Lake)
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Damn Smith and Tusting! (V2, Boulder, Picturesque Wall)
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