Bongeater Buttress Little Cottonwood Climbing Guide
Bongeater Buttress and the surrounding areas offer some of Little Cottonwood's most varied climbing, from mellow sport routes on Red Slab to burly trad lines on the main buttress. The area sees climbers year-round thanks to good sun exposure and relatively quick access from the parking areas. Check current access restrictions before heading up—Little Cottonwood can have seasonal closures for wildlife protection.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define climbing in this area. These routes have earned their reputation through decades of ascents and represent the best of what Little Cottonwood granite has to offer.
Routes
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Pregnant Guppy (5.7, Trad, Red Slab (nearby))
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Red Dwarf (5.9, Sport, Red Slab (nearby))
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Playing In The Sun (5.6, Trad, Black Peeler Buttress)
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Commitment (5.6, Trad, Commitment Buttress)
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Lisa Falls Right (5.4+, Trad, Lisa Falls Buttress)
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Japanese Terraces (5.8b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Pentapitch (5.8b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Sasquatch (5.9+, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Playground (5.4b, Sport, Red Slab (nearby))
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Peeler Direct (Aid, Trad, Black Peeler Buttress)
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Bongeater (5.10d, Trad, Bongeater Buttress)
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Red Slab (5.6, Sport, Red Slab (nearby))
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on real granite. The Red Slab area nearby offers excellent sport climbing for those new to outdoor climbing, while the trad routes here will teach you what Little Cottonwood granite is all about.
Routes
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Desperado (5.9+, Trad, Bongeater Buttress)
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Mr. Cornflakes (5.7+, Sport, Red Slab (nearby))
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Red Red Whine (5.9, Sport, Red Slab (nearby))
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Empty Plate (5.9+, Trad, Westwind Buttress)
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Western Grebe (5.8+, Trad, Black Peeler Buttress)
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The Stone Cutter (5.9+, Sport, Black Peeler Buttress)
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Bloodsport (5.7+, Trad, East Gate Buttress)
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Only Human Var. (5.9+, Trad, East Gate Buttress)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where the area really shines. Solid 5.10 trad climbing that'll push your gear placement and movement skills. Come prepared with a full rack and the fitness for sustained climbing.
Routes
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Handeater (5.10b, Trad, Bongeater Buttress)
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Check the Technique (5.10-, Trad, Westwind Buttress)
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Expect No Mercy (5.10d, Trad, Westwind Buttress)
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Sacrifice (5.10d, Trad, Westwind Buttress)
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Separation Anxiety (5.11+, Trad, Westwind Buttress)
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The Flakes (5.10b, Trad, East Gate Buttress)
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The Ripping Wall (5.10c, Trad, East Gate Buttress)
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Dike from Hell (5.10b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Endless Torment (5.10b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Flashdance (5.11c, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The cutting edge of what this area offers. These routes demand serious fitness and technical skill, with a mix of sport and trad options for those pushing their limits.
Routes
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Life by the Throat (5.12b, Sport, Bongeater Buttress)
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Life on your feet (5.12d, Sport, Bongeater Buttress)
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Prowser (5.12b/c, Trad, Bongeater Buttress)
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Last of The Summer Wine (5.12-, Sport, Westwind Buttress)
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Boulder Problems
Quality granite bouldering when you want to work specific moves or warm up before hitting the longer routes. The White Pine South area has developed into a solid bouldering destination.
Routes
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Mom (V15, Boulder, White Pine South)
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Blunder (V3-6A, Boulder, White Pine South)
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Deserter (V, Boulder, White Pine South)
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Tequila Sunset (V4-6B, Boulder, White Pine South)
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