Big Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Guide
Big Cottonwood Canyon offers some of Utah's most accessible alpine-style climbing, with everything from mellow trad lines to burly boulder problems scattered throughout the drainage. The granite here is solid, the approaches are reasonable, and you'll find quality routes across all grades. Note that the canyon has seasonal closures for watershed protection, so check current access before heading up.
Classic Routes (5.3–5.9)
The must-do lines that define Big Cottonwood's character. These routes have earned their stripes through decades of traffic, offering everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to technical single-pitch gems that showcase the canyon's best rock.
Routes
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Hey kids! Get down from there! (5.3, Trad, School for people to learn good)
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Abracadabra (5.5, Trad, Salt Lake Slips)
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Direct North Ridge (5.5, Trad, Talk Buttress)
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Lion of Zion, The (5.6, Trad, Dogwood Crag)
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Steorts' Ridge (5.6, Trad, Dead Snag)
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Starstruck (5.8, Trad, Strone Crag)
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Sonic Boone (5.8, Trad, Windy Canyon)
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The Roadster (5.8+, Sport, Challenge Buttress)
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A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9, Sport, Dogwood Crag)
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Hyper-Gamma Spaces (5.9, Trad, Dogwood Crag)
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Sweet and Low (5.9, Sport, Challenge Buttress)
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I Think I'm Going Bald (5.9-, Sport, Dogwood Crag)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.8+)
Perfect for building your outdoor skills or getting back into the swing of things after a gym hiatus. These routes offer solid rock and manageable grades across multiple crags, with a good mix of sport and trad options to round out your experience.
Routes
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Top-Rope Tough Guy (5.6, Trad, Dogwood Crag)
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Little Critters (5.6, Trad, Dogwood Crag)
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Bones 2nd Pitch (5.6, Sport, Salt Lake Slips)
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Cornication (5.6, Sport, Salt Lake Slips)
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Jinkies (5.7+, Sport, Ambush Wall Lower)
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Little Things (5.8, Sport, Dogwood Crag)
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Forgotten Ambition (5.8, Trad, Salt Lake Slips)
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Chug A Jug (5.8, Sport, Ambush Wall Lower)
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House Party (5.8, Sport, Ambush Wall Lower)
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Life During Wartime (5.8, Trad, Dogwood Crag)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10c)
Step up your game with these solid 5.10 offerings. The canyon's intermediate routes demand better technique and stronger fingers, with quality trad and sport options that'll push your limits without destroying your confidence.
Routes
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Breaking the Law (5.10a, Trad, Beachball Crag)
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Sneak-a-Peak Arete Direct Start (5.10a, Trad, Beachball Crag)
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Chambered Nautilus (5.10a, Sport, Challenge Buttress)
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Retrobution (5.10a, Sport, JHCOB Wall)
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His Feet Smell (5.10b, Trad, Beachball Crag)
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SPF 25 (5.10b, Trad, Beachball Crag)
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Broken Thumb (5.10b, Trad, Challenge Buttress)
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cTr (5.10b/c, Sport, Challenge Buttress)
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Epic Routes
When you're ready to commit to something bigger and more adventurous. These routes demand solid skills, good judgment, and a willingness to embrace the full mountain experience that Big Cottonwood has to offer.
Routes
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Crescendo (5.9, Trad, JHCOB Wall)
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The Scottish Gully (WI3 M4, Trad, JHCOB Wall)
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Boulder Problems (V4–V10)
Big Cottonwood's bouldering scene is scattered but quality, with problems ranging from moderate power endurance to full-on proj material. The rock is typically excellent, and the settings are alpine enough to make every session feel like an adventure.
Routes
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Sherpa Hop (V4, Boulder, Sherpa Boulders)
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Crack Attack (V5, Boulder, The Scrap Yard)
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Twisty Tootsy (V5+, Boulder, DOJO Area)
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Orange Crush (V6, Boulder, Millie Boulder)
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Mantis Traverse R to L (V6, Boulder, The Scrap Yard)
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Mantle? (V7-, Boulder, Millie Boulder)
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Mantis Traverse L to R (V7, Boulder, The Scrap Yard)
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Wasp Horror (V7, Boulder, The Scrap Yard)
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Dayman (V7+, Boulder, S-curve boulders)
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Forged In Fire (V10-, Boulder, S-curve boulders)
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