Big Bend Moab Climbing Guide
Big Bend offers some of Moab's most concentrated bouldering alongside classic desert tower climbing. The area is famous for its high-quality sandstone problems ranging from mellow warm-ups to world-class testpieces, plus a handful of stellar trad routes on Big Bend Butte. It's a solid choice when you want variety without driving all over the desert.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Big Bend. These routes have earned their reputation through quality movement, position, or historical significance.
Routes
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Army of Darkness (V5, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Basketball Diaries (V5, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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The Grim Reacher (V5, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Circus Trick (V6, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Chaos (V8, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Hell Belly (V10-11, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Phantom Fighter (V11, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Shorter Traverse (V5, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Bum Steer (V6, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Clearlight (5.11c+, Trad, Big Bend Butte)
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Infrared (5.11c, Trad, Big Bend Butte)
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Beginner Routes (V0–V2)
Perfect for getting familiar with Moab sandstone or warming up before harder sends. The Black Box and Flat Top Boulder offer plenty of options to dial in your footwork.
Routes
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Back Alley (V0, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Back Alley Left (V0+, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Center Start (V1, Boulder, The Black Box)
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The DiCaprio Arete (V1, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Kick Start (V0-4, Boulder, Flat Top Boulder)
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Leftover Lover (V0-4, Boulder, Flat Top Boulder)
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Slots of Fun (V2, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Lip Traverse (V2-5+, Boulder, Flat Top Boulder)
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Intermediate Routes (V3–V4)
Solid stepping stones that'll push your technique without destroying your skin. Good mix of different movement styles across the main boulder areas.
Routes
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Arete Left Side (V3, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Arete Right Side (V3+, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Rampage (V3, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Drunkula (V4, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Quasi-mono (V4, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Double Crimp (V4-6B, Boulder, Flat Top Boulder)
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Dyno for Dollars (V4-6B, Boulder, Flat Top Boulder)
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Traverse Slots (V3, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Center Direct (V3, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Silly Wabbit (V3+6A+, Boulder, Flat Top Boulder)
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Hard Routes (V7–V9)
These are the problems that separate the weekend warriors from the crushers. Expect powerful moves, technical sequences, and some serious commitment.
Routes
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Arete Left Side Sit Start (V7, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Frankenspank (V7, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Queen Amadala (V7, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Hell Belly Stand (V8, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Grim Reacher Direct (V8, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Left Hand Of Darkness (V8, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Right Hand Of Darkness (V8, Boulder, Army of Darkness Boulder)
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Blue Light (V9, Boulder, The Black Box)
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Phantom Fighter Stand (V9, Boulder, Chaos Boulder)
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Epic Routes
Big commitments that demand respect. These routes offer adventure climbing with serious consequences or technical challenges.
Routes
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Kor Route (5.8 C2, Trad, Big Bend Butte)
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Dolofright (5.11d R, Trad, Dolomite Spire (near Big Bend Butte))
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Grim Reaper (5.10a, Trad, Big Bend Butte)
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