Bells Canyon Climbing Guide
Bells Canyon offers some of Utah's most classic traditional climbing on solid quartzite towers and domes. The area is known for its multi-pitch adventures and technical face climbing, with routes ranging from mellow beginner lines to serious test pieces. Access requires a moderate hike, so come prepared for a full day in the mountains.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Bells Canyon. These routes showcase what makes this area special, from classic trad lines to quality boulder problems.
Routes
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Route of All Evil (5.6, Trad, East Bell Tower)
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For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7, Trad, Waterfall Dome)
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Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route (5.7+, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Beckey Route (5.9, Trad, West Bell Tower)
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Arm and Hammer (5.10b, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Ring That Bell (?, Sport, ?)
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Belle of the Beast (4c, Boulder, Bell's Beast)
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Root Of Boll Weevil (-, Boulder, East Bell Tower)
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Kinabalu (-, Boulder, East Waterfall Dome)
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Mind's Eye (5b, Boulder, Far West Bell Tower)
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Seams Like Fun (5a, Boulder, Far West Bell Tower)
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The Bellagio (4b, Boulder, Waterfall Dome)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad skills or getting comfortable with multi-pitch climbing. These routes offer solid rock and manageable grades while still delivering that classic Bells Canyon experience.
Routes
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McQuarrie Route (5.9+, Trad, East Bell Tower)
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Easy Way Up (5.9+, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with these technical and sustained lines. The Middle Bell Tower concentration means you'll be working some of the area's most featured and challenging rock.
Routes
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Butcher Knife (5.10d, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Dire Direct (5.10d, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Winged Warrior (5.10, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Demon's Dance (5.11, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Once in a Blood Moon (5.11, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Regge Pole (5.11a, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Gin and Tonic (5.11b/c, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Hard Routes (5.11+–5.12+)
The serious business. These routes demand solid technique, mental game, and gear skills. Mix of traditional climbing and bouldering for when you want to push your limits.
Routes
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The Gendarme (5.11+, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Tonic Immobility (5.11+, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Cymbals Of The Sun (5.12a, Trad, Middle Bell Tower)
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Waterfall Route (V12, Boulder, Waterfall Dome)
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Beauty (5c, Boulder, Bell's Beast)
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Beast (5b, Boulder, Bell's Beast)
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