Arches National Park Climbing
Arches delivers classic desert tower climbing on bomber Entrada sandstone, with everything from mellow chimneys to technical face routes. The park's iconic spires and walls offer some of Utah's most scenic climbing, though you'll need to navigate NPS regulations and seasonal closures. Most routes are traditional multi-pitch affairs that reward solid gear skills and route-finding.
Classic Routes
Essential climbing scattered throughout the park, from warm-up problems to world-class testpieces. These routes showcase the unique movement and features of Arches' sandstone across both bouldering and traditional climbing.
Routes
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Backside Crack (V0-, Boulder, Double O Arch Boulders)
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Right V2 (V1-2, Boulder, Double O Arch Boulders)
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V0 (Downclimb) (V0, Boulder, Double O Arch Boulders)
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Dihedral (V-easy, Boulder, Entrance Boulder)
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Juniper Right (V0-4, Boulder, Entrance Boulder)
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One Move Blunder (V0-4, Boulder, Entrance Boulder)
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Pizzaball (V2, Boulder, Delicate Arch Trail (Bouldering))
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Juniper (V15, Boulder, Entrance Boulder)
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.8)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert towers or stepping up your trad game on quality stone. These routes offer solid introductions to chimney systems, hand cracks, and the unique movement of Entrada sandstone.
Routes
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Zenyatta Entrada (5.4, Trad, Tower of Babel)
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West Chimney (5.6, Trad, Bullwinkle Tower)
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The Phallus (5.7, Trad, The Phallus)
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Northeast Chimney (5.7a, Trad, Off Balanced Rock)
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West Crack (5.8, Trad, Owl Rock)
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The Doil (5.8, Trad, 100-yard Wall)
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Virgin Wool (5.8, Trad, Sheep Rock)
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North Face (The Wishbone) (5.8, Trad, Wishbone)
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Intermediate Routes (5.9–5.11c)
Step up to more technical terrain and sustained climbing on some of the park's premier formations. These routes demand solid trad skills and the fitness for longer, more committing objectives.
Routes
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Portable Trash Unit (5.9, Trad, Zippy Zebra Wall)
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Left Nut (5.9, Trad, Testes)
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The Great Wall (5.9+, Trad, Great Wall)
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Zippy Zebra (5.10a, Trad, Zippy Zebra Wall)
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The Right Nut (5.10a, Trad, Testes)
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Speak No Evil (5.10b, Trad, The Three Gossips)
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Regular Route (5.10b, Trad, Devil's Golf Ball (AKA The Bulbous Head))
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Heart of the Desert (5.10c, Trad, Park Avenue (East))
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West Face (5.11c, Trad, Argon Tower)
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Hard Routes (5.11c+)
The park's most demanding traditional routes, all concentrated on The Three Gossips formation. These lines require advanced trad skills and serious commitment for the full desert tower experience.
Routes
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Be There or Be Talked About (5.11c+, Trad, The Three Gossips)
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West Face (5.11c+, Trad, The Three Gossips)
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Lyon Trautner Route (5.11c+, Trad, The Three Gossips)
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