Ancient Art Fisher Towers Climbing Guide
Fisher Towers delivers some of Utah's most iconic desert tower climbing, with Ancient Art being the crown jewel that draws climbers from around the world. The area offers everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to serious aid routes on questionable rock. Access is straightforward via the Fisher Towers Road, but expect crowds on weekends and during peak season.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define the Fisher Towers experience. These are the climbs that keep people coming back and talking about this place for decades.
Routes
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The Hippie Route (North Summit) (5.9, Trad, Ancient Art)
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Stolen Chimney (5.10, Trad, Ancient Art)
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West Side Story (Trad (Aid), Trad, Cottontail Tower)
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Impish (5.4, Trad, Dock Rock)
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Look See (5.7, Trad, Dock Rock)
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Southeast Face (5.6, Trad, The Dragon's Tail)
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Unknown (5.7, Trad, Dunce Rock)
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Phantom Sprint (5.9, Trad, Echo Tower)
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The Tapeworm (5.9, Trad, Echo Tower)
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Original Route (5.7, Trad, Carson's Tower)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert towers without committing to the gnarlier stuff. These routes offer solid introductions to the unique rock quality and exposure that make Fisher Towers legendary.
Routes
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Iron Chef, The (5.7a, Trad, Echo Tower)
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Run Amok (5.9, Trad, Echo Tower)
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Sidewinder (5.7+, Trad, Echo Tower)
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Sand In My Pants (5.8, Trad, Carson's Tower)
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Intermediate Routes (5.9+–5.11)
Step up your tower game with routes that demand solid trad skills and comfort with exposure. These climbs showcase why Fisher Towers has such a devoted following among desert rats.
Routes
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The Cobra (5.11-, Trad, The Cobra)
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Death Of American Democracy (5.10b, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Jagged Edge (5.9+, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Thermic Fever (5.9+, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Brer Rabbit (5.10+, Trad, Cottontail Tower)
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Trick of the Tail (5.10+, Trad, Cottontail Tower)
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46 (5.11a, Trad, Dock Rock)
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Voodoo Hoodoo (5.10+, Trad, The Voodoo Hoodoo)
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Jam-a-crack (5.8, Trad, Dunce Rock)
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Hard Routes (A3–A5)
Serious aid climbing for those who live for the commitment and questionable gear placements. These routes separate the weekend warriors from the true desert tower devotees.
Routes
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The Return of Mudzilla (A3, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Weird Science (A4, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Whipping Pussy Riot (A3+, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Bad Religons (A5, Trad, Echo Tower)
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Free Gaza (Aid A4+, Trad, Cottontail Tower)
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Intifada (5.9 A5, Trad, Cottontail Tower)
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Mudgumbis (Aid A2+, Trad, Dunce Rock)
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