American Fork Canyon Climbing Guide
American Fork Canyon delivers some of Utah's most accessible limestone sport climbing, with everything from mellow 5.7s to burly 5.13s just 45 minutes from Salt Lake City. The canyon's multiple crags offer year-round climbing opportunities, though summer can get hot on south-facing walls. Check current access conditions before heading up—seasonal closures and parking restrictions change regularly.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define American Fork. These routes consistently deliver quality movement and are worth the drive regardless of your grade range.
Routes
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Forgotten Wall #3 (5.10a, Sport, Hard Rock)
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Forgotten Wall #4 (5.10a, Sport, Hard Rock)
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30 (5.10a, Sport, The B-52 Wall)
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Forgotten Wall #2 (5.10c, Sport, Hard Rock)
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Brick Yard (5.11a, Sport, The B-52 Wall)
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Suspect (5.11c, Sport, B-52 Wall)
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Litmus Test (5.11c, Sport, Division Wall)
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Motherload (5.11c, Sport, Escape Buttress)
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Four Runner (5.11d, Sport, Silver Gate)
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Helix (5.12b, Sport, Black Magic)
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Beeline (5.12b, Sport, The Billboard)
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Apetizer (5.12b/c, Sport, The Billboard)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on limestone or introducing friends to outdoor climbing. These routes offer solid movement without being overly pumpy, and most walls have multiple options so you can session different styles.
Routes
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Leap of Faith (5.7, Sport, The B-52 Wall)
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Yin (5.7, Trad, Little Mill Area)
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Time Crunch (5.8, Sport, Juniper Wall)
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Yang (5.8, Sport, Little Mill Area)
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Gas Boost (5.8+, Sport, Hard Rock)
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Don't Avoid What Is Easy (5.9, Sport, The B-52 Wall)
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Child's Play (5.9, Sport, Juniper Wall)
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Dag Nasty Part Deux (5.9, Sport, Tank Canyon (Old School Rock sub-area))
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where American Fork really shines. Expect technical movement, some endurance, and the occasional crux that'll make you work for it. Great for pushing grades or getting solid mileage at your limit.
Routes
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Many Options (5.10a, Sport, Hard Rock)
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Born Again (5.10a, Sport, Hard Rock)
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Black Hole (5.10a, Sport, Division Wall)
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Blood on the Rocks (5.10b, Sport, Juniper Wall)
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Patty Baby (5.10b, Sport, Little Mill Area)
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Old School (5.10b, Sport, Old School Rock)
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Bumbly Bells (5.10b, Sport, Hard Rock)
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Kiddie Pool (5.10d, Sport, Division Wall)
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Deep End (5.11a, Sport, Division Wall)
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The Atheist (5.11b, Sport, Division Wall)
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Six to Eleven (5.11b/c, Sport, Hard Rock)
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Reaching for Razors (5.11d, Sport, Hell Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Serious business. These routes demand everything—power, endurance, and precise technique. Come warmed up and ready to project.
Routes
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American Fork Canyon Memorial Route (5.12b/c, Sport, The B-52 Wall)
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40 oz to Freedom (5.12c, Sport, Bingo Baby)
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Problem Child (5.12c, Sport, Black Magic)
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An Affair to Remember (5.12c/d, Sport, Bingo Baby)
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Lock and Load (5.12d, Sport, Black Magic)
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El Diablo (5.12d, Sport, El Diablo Wall)
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Malvado (5.13a, Sport, El Diablo Wall)
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Melting (5.13a, Sport, Hell Cave)
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Hell (5.13a, Sport, Hell Wall)
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Burning (5.13b, Sport, Hell Cave)
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Wizards (5.13b, Sport, Hell Cave)
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Boulders
Quality limestone bouldering scattered throughout the canyon. Perfect for warming up before routes or when you want a different style of movement.
Routes
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Hookers (V0-1 4+, Boulder, B-52 Boulders)
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Large Arete (V2-3, Boulder, Lower Division)
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The Forum (V4, Boulder, Australian Boulder)
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Brown Out (V4, Boulder, Australian Boulder)
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Down Under (V4, Boulder, Australian Boulder)
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Dihedral (V4, Boulder, Lower Division)
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East Face (V5, Boulder, House Boulder)
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Dawg Licker (V5-6C, Boulder, House Boulder)
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Commitment (V5+, Boulder, Australian Boulder)
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Bugs Life (V6-7A, Boulder, B-52 Boulders)
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