Albion Basin Little Cottonwood Climbing Guide
Albion Basin offers some of the most accessible alpine sport and trad climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon, with everything from mellow multi-pitch trad on Devil's Castle to dialed sport routes on the various "Stash" walls. The area sees heavy traffic during summer months, so get there early for the classics. Note that this is within the Wasatch National Forest and standard LNT principles apply.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Albion Basin climbing. These see traffic for good reason – they represent the best movement and rock quality the area has to offer. Plan to spend multiple days working through this list.
Routes
-
Stinky Stash (5.9+, Sport, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Cardinal Sin (5.10b, Sport, Creekside Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Girls on Film (5.10b/c, Sport, Creekside Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Junk Head (5.10b/c, Sport, Creekside Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Anti Hero's (5.10c, Sport, Creekside Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Wisp (5.10b, Sport, Cecret Stash)
View on Mountain Project → -
Rasta Roofs (5.10c, Sport, Cecret Stash)
View on Mountain Project → -
Bong Water Drip (5.10c, Sport, Cecret Stash)
View on Mountain Project → -
Cannonball (5.10c, Sport, Cecret Stash)
View on Mountain Project → -
Soul Asylum (5.10d, Boulder, Cosmic Web Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Rings of Saturn (5.10-, Boulder, Cosmic Web Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Cosmic Web (5.10b, Boulder, Cosmic Web Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Bush Bullshit (5.10a, Boulder, Devil's Castle)
View on Mountain Project →
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on real rock. The Devil's Castle trad routes are classics for learning multi-pitch skills, while the sport routes on Green Stash and Stinky Stash walls offer solid movement on good rock.
Routes
-
Horns Of Satan (5.6, Trad, Devil's Castle)
View on Mountain Project → -
Black Streak (5.7, Trad, Devil's Castle)
View on Mountain Project → -
Friday the 13th (5.8, Trad, Devil's Castle)
View on Mountain Project → -
Pepe' Le Pew (5.9-, Sport, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Rezin Heads (5.9+, Sport, Green Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Black Hash (5.9+, Sport, Green Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Skunk Buds (5.9+, Sport, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Stinky Buddy (5.9+, Trad, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project →
Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10c)
Solid 5.10 climbing across multiple walls. These routes will keep you busy for several sessions and offer good variety between the different areas. The Creekside Wall routes are particularly popular for their consistent quality.
Routes
-
The Kind (5.10a, Sport, Green Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Cough Your Off (5.10a/b, Sport, Green Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Reefer Madness (5.10a, Sport, Green Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Dog Farts (5.10a, Sport, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
GR 2 (5.10, Trad, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
GR 6 (5.10-, Trad, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Skunk Weed (5.10a/b, Sport, Stinky Stash Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Virus (5.10-, Sport, Whipper Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
POLITRICS (5.10-, Sport, Creekside Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Undersir Abules (5.10b, Sport, Creekside Wall)
View on Mountain Project →
Hard Routes (5.10d+)
Step it up with these harder sends. Whipper Wall lives up to its name with some burly routes, while the boulder problems on Devil's Castle offer a different style of challenge.
Routes
-
Brain Bomb (5.10d, Sport, Whipper Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
You're Nicked, Who's Next? (5.10d, Sport, Whipper Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Vaporizer (5.10d, Sport, Cecret Stash)
View on Mountain Project → -
Toxic Narcotic (5.11b/c, Sport, Whipper Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
UnGoverenable Force (5.11b/c, Sport, Whipper Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Ride the Lightning (5.11c, Sport, Whipper Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Devil's Lettuce (5.12a, Boulder, Devil's Castle)
View on Mountain Project → -
Enemy at the Gate (5.11c, Boulder, Devil's Castle)
View on Mountain Project →